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Binder jetting vs plastic 3D printing: sand, FDM and resin compared

Binder jetting joins fine sand with a liquid binder, FDM draws with melted plastic filament and resin (SLA) printing cures liquid resin with light. Plastic printing is light and low-cost at small sizes, so it suits prototypes and small parts. Binder jetting in sand needs no supports, prints up to 1800 × 1000 × 700 mm at Blacksand and gives a matt, mineral, heavy piece, so it suits finished furniture, lighting and objects.

G02 by Gabriele D'Amico
G02 by Gabriele D'Amico

Three 3D printing processes come up when designers talk about furniture and objects: binder jetting, FDM and resin printing. They belong to three different families in ISO/ASTM 52900, the international vocabulary standard for additive manufacturing: binder jetting, material extrusion and vat photopolymerisation. All three build a piece from thin slices, but the results are very different. This guide compares them for one job: a finished piece of furniture, lighting or a sculptural object.

How each one works

  • Binder jetting in sand. A thin layer of fine sand is spread across a build box and a print head lays down a liquid binder only where the piece exists. The loose sand holds the piece up while it prints. At Blacksand, resin then soaks in and hardens it. More in What is sand 3D printing?
  • FDM (fused deposition modelling). A heated nozzle melts a plastic filament and draws each slice as a line of molten plastic. Overhangs need supports, torn away or dissolved after.
  • Resin printing (SLA, stereolithography). A laser cures liquid resin into solid plastic, one slice at a time. Supports are cut away, the part is washed in a solvent, and some resins need post-curing.

Side by side

Binder jetting in sandFDM (plastic filament)Resin (SLA)
How it buildsLiquid binder joins fine sandMolten plastic through a nozzleLight cures liquid resin
SupportsNone: loose sand holds the pieceNeeded for overhangsNeeded, cut away after
One printUp to 1800 × 1000 × 700 mm at BlacksandDesktop up to about 300 × 300 × 600 mmDesktop up to about 300 × 335 × 200 mm
SurfaceMatt, mineral, fine grain, no coatingVisible lines between layersSmooth, fine detail
StrengthSolid and dense once resin soaks inWeaker across the layers than along themSame in every direction
WeightHeavy, stableLightLight
Cost logicBy weight, no setup feesMachine time, material, labourMachine time, resin, labour
Best forFinished furniture, lighting, objectsPrototypes, small functional partsSmall, precise, detailed parts

Size

Desktop plastic printers stop well short of furniture size, and industrial FDM machines go up to around a cubic metre. At Blacksand, one sand print fills 1800 × 1000 × 700 mm, the footprint of a dining table, so tables, consoles and lounge chairs can print in one piece. Anything bigger is printed in parts and bonded.

Surface

FDM leaves visible lines, which are sanded or smoothed when the part will be seen. Resin gives fine features and a smooth surface.

In sand, the surface is the material itself: matt, mineral and light-absorbing, with no paint or coating. Up close you see the grain, small pores and slight shifts in tone and sheen. Curves read smooth, though the surface is never mirror-polished.

Strength and weight

In FDM, each layer bonds mechanically to the one below, so a part is weaker across its layers than along them. Resin parts are equally strong in every direction, though standard resins tend to be weaker than FDM plastics. Both are light.

Raw printed sand snaps. With resin soaked in, it becomes a solid, dense piece, printed solid all the way through unless it is designed hollow. It is heavy in the hand: from about half a kilogram for a candle holder to more than 50 kg for the ECLIPSE Coffee Table. That weight gives a piece stability and presence. Sand is not made for small mechanical parts or very thin walls.

Cost logic

In plastic, FDM gives the cheapest parts for simple prototypes, and resin printers and materials cost more.

At Blacksand, the price follows weight: €158 per kilogram, including VAT, at one rate for every designer, with no setup fees and no tooling. Complexity costs nothing: a lattice prints in the same time as a block and uses less sand, so it costs less. Some real prices:

The full breakdown is in How much does sand 3D printing cost?

When to use which

  • FDM: cheap prototypes, checking proportions at small scale, light functional parts.
  • Resin: small, precise parts and detailed models where a smooth surface matters.
  • Binder jetting in sand: the finished piece: tables, lighting, vases, candle holders and sculpture, with weight, a matt surface and complex form, no moulds, from one piece to a series.

They work well together. A small plastic print is a cheap way to check a form before the final piece prints in sand. See Designing for sand 3D printing for the rules a sand file follows, and meet the designers working in sand.

Sand pieces are for indoor use in dry places and not for food or drink. Vases are for dried flowers only, and candles always go in a metal or glass cup, with 10 cm between burning candles.

Questions

Is binder jetting better than FDM?

They do different jobs. FDM is the low-cost choice for prototypes and small plastic parts. Binder jetting in sand suits finished pieces at furniture scale, with no supports and a matt, mineral surface.

Is resin printing the same as sand printing with resin?

No. In SLA, light cures liquid resin to make the whole part. In sand printing, a binder joins the sand grains and resin soaks into the printed form afterwards to harden it.

Can I send the file I printed in plastic?

Yes, as STEP, OBJ, STL or 3DM, through Production. Every file gets a design review: walls should be 5 mm or thicker, and a closed hollow needs two 30 mm openings so the loose sand can come out.

Sources: ISO/ASTM 52900 vocabulary standard · Formlabs, FDM vs. SLA · Xometry, SLA vs. FDM

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